Panna Cotta Perfected

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I have wanted to master a panna cotta, and I think I have settled on the right recipe for me. Ultimately, every recipe is some variation on the ratio of heavy cream to milk (or any other combination of dairy fats), with sugar, gelatin and flavoring.

For this particular version, I first made a raspberry fruit puree gelée (fruit puree slightly diluted with water and apricot nappage, to taste, with gelatin) and let it set in the mini cups on a slant. Then I made my panna cotta, using the recipe below, and poured it into the cups upright. Finally, I topped with some almond granola and a fresh raspberry. I originally intended to make a white chocolate basket for the raspberry but ran out of time. The result was still quite tasty and pretty!

Panna Cotta

Makes about 16 fl. oz.

Ingredients:

• 2 cups (473 mL) heavy cream
• 1½ cups (355 mL) milk
• 5 Tbsp (~63 g) granulated sugar
• 4 sheets gelatin, bloomed (about one packet or one tablespoon of powdered gelatin)
• 1 vanilla bean (split and scraped)

Directions:

1. Heat heavy cream, milk, sugar and scraped vanilla beans until the sugar dissolves. Add the bloomed gelatin.
2. Cool in ice bath until lukewarm or just cool. This step helps prevent the fats from separating out into a two-layered panna cotta.
3. Pour into molds and chill for about 4 hours or overnight (although the longer you chill, the harder the panna cotta will be).

Pastry School Recap | Units 10/13/15 Plated Desserts

Something about plated desserts feels classy and elite to me. If I were to feel like a true pastry chef, I feel like I would have to master the art of these. However, I doubt I would ever work in the pastry kitchen of a restaurant. So, our dessert menu project from pastry school will have to suffice for life experience.

We had three units of individual plated desserts. Three! That is a lot, and I think most of us were a little sick of them by the end. I could fill pages of this blog with photos of visually stunning dessert plates, but I'll stick with the ones I concocted for our dessert menu project, for which I created my imaginary dessert restaurant, Spiked, featuring cocktail-inspired desserts.

(Disclaimer: Again, neither this restaurant nor the URL is real.)

From my menu, the chef selected the Margarita and the Rum & Coke for actual presentation and taste-testing. 

The Rum & Coke was intended to be a glass full of brown sugar rum ice cream sandwich cubes, coated or sprinkled with chocolate pop rocks, with a side of sour cherry compote and cherry cola sorbet. Unfortunately, the classroom fridge and freezer blew out the night before presentation, which melted everyone's ice cream. So in a pinch, I remade the rum ice cream and scooped it into the cup, sprinkled with chocolate pop rocks, and inserted a chocolate tuile straw for decor. Tastewise, it was still a success!

The Margarita was my favorite, and is also the concept that inspired my recent eggnog bombe. This dessert is a citrus tequila mousse bombe with Grand Marnier crème brûlée and a lime cookie. On the side is an orange tequila sauce, lime cookie crumbs, crème anglaise and a candied lime.

 Please excuse the iPhone photos! That's all I had available in class.

Office Bytes | Holiday Eggnog Bombe

Happy holidays! My 2015 new year's resolution is to establish a new Milo's Bonbons website/storefront (with a blog section to keep providing updates of course). But before we bid farewell to 2014, here is one more post from the holiday season -- my plated dessert version of the classic eggnog.

This bombe is made with a rum crème brûlée tucked inside a crème anglaise Bavarian cream dome, on top of a cinnamon nutmeg shortbread. I plated this with a pear compote, shortbread crumbs and a curled wafer for my office holiday party potluck. This dessert was great while it was still cold and semi-frozen. Admittedly once it hit room temperature, I thought the flavors and textures were a little flat. (Certainly not as interesting as my original incarnation of this dessert as a citrus margarita bombe, which I created for my pastry school plated dessert project. I'll recap that project shortly!) Then again, I don't actually consume eggnog so I'm probably not the best judge for what eggnog should taste like . . .

But, this was a good opportunity to practice the preparation and service of a plated dessert. Main takeaway: stick with simple baked goods for an office potluck to avoid sleep deprivation.

Greek Yogurt Panna Cotta

A lot of my friends take interest in what dessert I might order at dinner, as if having gone to pastry school has somehow elevated my taste. I'm not sure that it has . . . but I do tend to order things that I know I couldn't make easily. Notwithstanding, one of my favorite desserts to order is panna cotta, which is actually a very simple dessert. It is an Italian custard, basically a "cooked cream" thickened with gelatin. There is something just so perfect about the velvety smooth, subtly sweet custard with a little bit of wobble. It is a great pairing with so many different flavors, whether fruity or spiced.

This version that I made recently for my own housewarming adds Greek yogurt to the mix, which perhaps makes it less of a true panna cotta, but is still easy and yummy. I added a graham cracker base for texture and flavor, and topped with a pear-apricot puree miroir and some pear compote.

Greek Yogurt Panna Cotta

Makes about four 4" tarts or 5 oz. cups

Ingredients:

• 250 mL heavy cream
• 40 g granulated sugar
• 2 sheets gelatin, bloomed (about half a packet of powdered gelatin)
• 175 g Greek yogurt
• ½ t vanilla extract (or vanilla paste, or a whole vanilla bean)

Directions:

1. Heat half of the cream and all of the sugar until the sugar dissolves. Add the bloomed gelatin.
2. Whip the remaining cream lightly (no peaks should form).
3. Combine the hot cream with the yogurt and stir with a spatula. Let cool.
4. Add the lightly whipped cream to the mixture.
5. Pour into molds and chill.
6. Add optional flavoring on top (I mixed about equal parts Bosc apple puree with apricot nappage).
7. Insert cute little spoon and enjoy!

Wedding | Congrats Tiffany & Jon!

A very belated post, but . . . This past July, Milo's Bonbons had the honor of appearing on my cousin's wedding menu! It was a whirlwind of a preparation for the wedding, but such a pleasure to cater desserts for Tiffany's and Jon's celebration.

 

My cousin asked for salted caramel chocolate cupcakes and lemon bars. Believe it or not, it was my first time making lemon bars! I probably should have experimented with that a little more, as I wasn't perfectly happy with my crust to filling ratio, but it's hard to go wrong with the flavor. I made both lemon and and lemon-cherry swirl bars as a nod to the wedding colors.

To give the desserts a little something extra, I decided to present the cupcakes and lemon bars on a display stand. I didn't have enough chocolate on hand to make a chocolate stand and thought nougatine would be a better vehicle for my cousins's wedding themes of red + gold and succulents. However, in retrospect, nougatine wasn't the best choice for an outdoor wedding. The display held up, but it sure got shiny and sticky! Next time I'm sticking with using isomalt instead of sugar, or just using something material.

Here is the making of the nougatine, from toasting the nuts, to cooking the sugar and rolling out / cutting the pieces:

 

Nougatine

Makes about a half sheet pan

Ingredients:

• 600g granulated sugar
• 250g sliced almonds, lightly toasted and warm

Directions

1. Make a dry caramel (or wet, if you don't want too dark a nougatine) with the sugar in a saucepan.
2. Stir in the warm, sliced almonds.
3. Immediately pour mixture onto a nonstick silicone mat and spread as thinly as possible.
4. Place a second map on top of the caramel and roll out as thin and even as possible. Begin this step as soon as your can handle the heat.
5. Remove the top map, carefully life the nougatine sheet and place on cutting board or oiled parchment paper. If mat sticks, then caramel is still too hot.
6. Using a knife or cutting mold, cut desired shape, working quickly. If nougatine is too cold to cut or shape, place back on silicone mat and into a 350 degree oven for just long enough to soften.

I was quite limited by the size of my oven at that time, which couldn't fit a full sheet pan, and thus limited the size of my cylinders and ovals. But, I'd like to think there was something "organic" or "artistic" about the pieces I built with :) I added succulent trimmings to my nougatine leaves/petals to tie everything together:

Thanksgiving | (Part 2) Apple Rose Tarts & Pumpkin Cake Tarts

 

Continuing with my theme of using ingredients I had on hand, I also made apple rose tarts and pumpkin cake tarts for Thanksgiving (for co-workers, Friendsgiving and the actual family get-together). Although quite simple in theory, the apple tart in particular can be labor intensive if you hand slice your apples like I did. I think I told myself I was practicing my knife skills . . . but I would recommend using a mandolin slicer if you've got one!

The apple tarts are inspired by my baking friend Anjali, who in turn was inspired by a Pinterest post. The crust is a Pâte Brisée, and the rose is made from thin slices of Gala apples, coated with some sugar, cinnamon, lemon juice and melted butter.

I also added an apple compote (using Golden Delicious apples) underneath the rose to add flavor and moisture, which I think makes a big difference. After baking, I brushed with some apricot nappage for a glaze.

 

 

The pumpkin tarts use a Pâte Sucrée crust, baked with the same pumpkin brown butter cake batter I used for my Thanksgiving cake.

 

 

After baking, I leveled the top of the tart-cake, brushed on the brown sugar simple syrup, and then topped with mascarpone mousse.

Both were tasty treats and great for gifting. My personal favorite is the apple tart!

Thanksgiving | (Part 1) Pumpkin Brown Butter Cake

For Thanksgiving this year, I made a pumpkin layered cake, inspired by . . . ingredients on hand. I recently moved, and while I am excited to have a more functional oven and kitchen, I haven't had time to organize the pantry or find all of my tools. Looking at what I had (canned pumpkin, nuts, butter, sugar, mascarpone mousse for Friendsgiving tarts), I decided to make this cake with brown butter sage pumpkin layers, butterscotch pecan filling and mascarpone mousse frosting, with white chocolate leaves and cake crumbs for decoration.

The brown butter sage pumpkin cake comes from Martha Stewart, the butterscotch pecan filling comes from annie's eats and the mascarpone mousse is one of my favorites from Extraordinary Desserts that I've used multiple times.

Brown Butter Pumpkin Cake with Butterscotch Pecan Filling

Makes one 9" cake, or 12 cupcakes

Filling: 

• 1 cup granulated sugar
• Small squeeze of fresh lemon juice (optional, helps prevent crystallization)
• 1¼ sticks (5 oz.) unsalted butter, cubed
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 cup chopped toasted pecans

 Cake: 

• ¾ cup (1 ½ sticks) unsalted butter
• 1 ⅔ cups all-purpose flour
• ¼ cup fresh sage (chiffonade)
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
• ¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup pumpkin puree
• 1 cup packed light brown sugar
• 2 large eggs

Also make mascarpone mousse (or any other frosting such as buttercream) and a simple syrup (try brown sugar).

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Make the cake: Melt butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add sage strips and cook until butter turns golden brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer mixture to a bowl; let cool slightly. Meanwhile, whisk together flour, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and salt. In another bowl, whisk together pumpkin, brown sugar, eggs, and sage-butter mixture. Add flour mixture; whisk until incorporated. Pour batter into floured pan; smooth top with an offset spatula. Bake until done (about 60 minutes, or when a cake tester comes out clean). Cool, wrap and chill in refrigerator or freezer.
3. Make the filling: Warm heavy cream in a small saucepan (do not boil). In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar and lemon juice and stir with a whisk to combine (add water as necessary to resemble moist sand). [Note: If you're comfortable making a wet caramel, consider skipping the lemon juice. I added too much and ended up with a citrusy filling instead of a true butterscotch flavor.] Heat until sugar caramelizes into a golden amber color. Remove the saucepan from the heat and carefully add the heavy cream slowly, whisking constantly to incorporate. Whisk in the butter, a couple cubes at a time, stirring to incorporate completely before adding the next portion.
4. Cool the butterscotch in the refrigerator at least 45 minutes, until the mixture is no longer warm and has a slight chill.  Place the chilled butterscotch in a stand mixer bowl and beat for about 2 minutes, until it has thickened and lightened. Fold in the chopped pecans.
5. Cut cake into 3 layers. Brush cake layers with brown sugar simple syrup, spread filling, repeat, and cover cake with mascarpone mousse. Freeze until ready to decorate and serve.